Anika Begay
The first time I used the HexClad Hybrid Deep Saute Pan, burned myself on the “Stay Cool” handle (more on that later). I seasoned the pan with oil per the manufacturer’s recommendations, cooked some eggs, and they came out mostly fine, but they stuck to the pan that’s marketed as “nonstick.” This led me down a path of minor niggles that culminated in one conclusion: HexClad cookware is, like, good, I’d say. But the hybrid technology that combines stainless steel and nonstick cookware doesn’t really have that much of an impact, except in negative ways, and you should just get a good stainless pan and a good nonstick pan.
First impressions
Photography: Louryn Strampe
When I test gear, I have a rule for myself: I go in with fresh eyes. That means, whenever possible, I avoid other people’s opinions: professional reviewers, friends, my pets, etc. I was already skeptical about HexClad because of the marketing surrounding it, and my experience cooking with it reinforced that feeling. You know when you’re shopping on Amazon and choose to buy wrapping paper and the items arrive in a weird, tacky fabric bag? That’s how HexClad pans come wrapped (in their boxes) when they arrive. It’s a small thing, but it bothered me. It reminded me of staying at a really nice hotel, only to find that the sheets have a seven-thread count and the toilet paper is see-through. And then I started cooking with it. Cookware coated with polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), or Teflon, is generally considered safe, but if it gets damaged or heated above 500 degrees Fahrenheit, it can be harmful to your health. I tried scraping the surface of the pan with a fork, but it didn’t chip or chip. That’s a good thing! But on the other hand, because of the hexagonal pattern on the inside surface of the pan, I don’t know that I would see small scratches or chips as easily as I would on a fully nonstick pan. You know what kind of cookware doesn’t have these issues? Carbon steel and cast iron. You know what doesn’t cost $179? Our favorite nonstick pan.
The $179 Hybrid Fry Pan 12-inch is good. It heated evenly and quickly, just a little slower than my All-Clad comparison. The same goes for the $179 Hybrid Deep Saute Pan 3.3-quart. But when these prices are comparable to the All-Clad, which I (and many chefs) consider the standard, they should perform just as well, and in my experience, they didn’t. During my month of testing, I cooked pasta, eggs, and steak on the stovetop twice in each pan.
Photography: Louryn Strampe
